Rust converters aren’t a magic cure-all for a rotten car, but can be very useful when tackling surface corrosion before applying a coating to prevent further rusting. Ian and Matt show you how and when to use them for maximum effect as part of your total rust prevention regime. Working on our Austin Maxi, Matt quizzes Ian on the dos and don’ts, giving you expert advice on how to properly protect your classic car.
In our first class, Danny and Clive dig into the engine bay to inspect a number of components prior to starting the engine. Cold engine checks are recommended for taking a closer look at hoses and other smaller parts of the engine that easily show damage and wear by shining a light. Before moving on to the next class, make sure you’ve inspected each of the components seen in this video.Watch Now >>
Discover the different forms of welding and assess which is most appropriate for your car’s new wheel arch. Michael Coman discusses the pros and cons of each weld type, and teaches you how to install and weld a factory wheel arch in place of an old rusted component.Watch Now >>
In the previous class, Ed showed you how to clean the valves and prepare them for reinsertion into the head. Now, you’ll learn how to lap in the valves using grinding paste and then decoke the engine in order to increase its efficiency and ensure top-notch engine performance for another several thousand miles. Ed introduces the tools you need to complete this process and then shows you how to use them.Watch Now >>
Once you’ve removed the cylinder head from the engine block, it’s necessary to dismantle the head to properly assess its condition and decide the next course of action. Ed teaches you how to search for any damage on the surface, including to the valves, head and copper sealing rings and the head gaskets, and then takes the head apart to have a look at each of the components inside.Watch Now >>