Skill Shack

How to Correct Heavy Steering

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:40:53 +0000

Old, balding or incorrect tyres can make for heavy steering on a classic car – and correct pressures are important too. Note that radials are usually inflated by about 3-5psi more than crossplies. Beware of over-inflating tyres for lighter steering – this will lead to a lack of grip. Never exceed the figure given for high-speed cruising in your manual. Next, examine the steering mechanism.

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How to Lap in Valves

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:39:04 +0000

The valves’ job is to open to let fuel mixture in and exhaust gas out – but also to seal perfectly when closed so everything’s kept firmly inside the combustion chamber. The sealing surfaces can become worn, pitted, damaged and contaminated over time, which has a highly detrimental effect on the engine’s performance. Place the valves in a drill and use abrasive paper to remove deposits from both...

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Stuck Clutch

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:37:36 +0000

If your classic car has been laid up for a long time, there is a chance that the clutch may have ‘stuck’. The friction disc is held tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate when the pedal’s released. When the car stands unused for a long time, the disc may start to adhere to the flywheel and pressure plate. This may be due to rust or to the resins used to manufacture the friction...

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Exhaust Assembly: Grease or Paste?

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:36:28 +0000

It’s a question the SkillShack with Practical Classics team are often asked: when assembling a new exhaust, should you use an assembly paste or copper grease? Well, exhaust paste expands as it gets hot and dries out, thus guaranteeing no leaks even if the pipes are a poor fit. However, it makes the sections harder to disassemble at a later date. Copper grease makes for easy disassembly but won’t...

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Steering Wobble

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:34:55 +0000

If your classic car steering wobbles, first check the condition of the wheels and tyres. They may be slightly distorted. Replace the tyres if they’re old irrespective of tread depth. Jack the car up and spin the wheels. Use a fixed marker to assess if the rims are distorted. If not, see if the tyre treads twitch or wander as the wheel spins. If all seems well here, check for play in the steering...

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Spark Plug Cash Saver

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:33:59 +0000

Did you know?… Spark plugs can last far longer than the stated service intervals suggest. In fact, if the engine’s running correctly they can last almost indefinitely. Check the gaps every 3000 to 6000 miles and clean them with a brass-bristled wire brush, if necessary. If they’re showing no signs of damage or erosion, they’re good to go again. If the engine starts to run on three cylinders and...

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Distributor Maintenance Check

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:32:40 +0000

It’s important to keep the cam in your distributor lightly lubricated to prevent premature wear of the heal of your points. A light smear of grease is best, unless there is an oiling felt provided – which should be lightly oiled periodically. Put a dab of oil on the points post, too – plus a few drops on the screw underneath the rotor arm, which will work its way down to the bob-weights of the...

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Inertia Seat Belt Problem

SkillShack Editors — Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:31:12 +0000

If your classic car seat belt is reluctant to pay out, the inertia reel of the belt may be sitting at the wrong angle. It has two elements. One triggers in the event of a sudden movement of the belt. The other takes the form of a steel ball in a cup. If the angle of the car changes such that the steel ball rolls out of its cup, the belt also locks. Make sure the reel is mounted upright and level.

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Brake Bleeding Fault Finder

SkillShack Editors — Wed, 20 Feb 2019 16:34:06 +0000

If you’re having trouble bleeding your classic car brakes, there’s a possibility that the nipples are open too far. A quarter-turn should be more than enough. If it’s still drawing air through the threads in preference to drawing fluid out of the system, then the fluid isn’t able to flow freely from the reservoir. If you open each of the bleed nipples with nothing connected to them...

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Starter Motor Testing

SkillShack Editors — Thu, 17 Jan 2019 21:14:14 +0000

If your starter motor is refusing to turn your engine over, first check the battery has sufficient charge and is in god condition. Next, scrutinise the ends of both battery leads, plus the engine-to-chassis-to-body earth straps. The wires can end up making very poor contact where they’re crimped into the terminals. This can due be down to salt and moisture ingress or vibration. If they seem in...

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